Most agree that the S197 has, thus far, won over the hearts of classic enthusiasts. But it seems designers still may have missed a few spots in the build when perfecting this reborn classic look—especially under the hood. The black-plastic intake manifold and uninteresting valve covers on the 4.6L seem to beg the owner to search for a more attractive option. Ford Racing Performance Parts (FRPP) offers that option with four different custom valve cover finishes for three-valve 4.6L engines.
For several years, I’ve contributed How-To write-ups to numerous publications, namely Mustang Monthly. With the help of photographer/writer Jim Smart, these articles have proven helpful to countless readers and enthusiasts.
The photos below show the powdercoated blue covers we installed on Carl Porcello’s 2006 Mustang GT at my shop,
Marlo's Frame & Alignment. The job took two hours for us, but most of the time was spent loosening and tightening more than two dozen bolts used to secure the covers. The rest of the job is a breeze, especially since the gaskets are designed to easily press fit into position.
Bolts are pre-positioned on these FRPP covers, which come in blue (PN M-6582-3VB), powdercoated chrome (PN M-6582-C543V), black wrinkle (PN M-6582-3VBLK), and silver (PN M-6582-3VS). The blue covers work well with the Windveil Blue paint on Carl’s GT.
First, remove the PCV hose from the cover as shown. Be sure to press in the green tab to release the tube. Note: The install is being performed on the passenger side to show the R&R process and because that’s where the oil-filler neck is located.
Plastic buttons secure the wiring harness over the cover. Pull these buttons off the cover carefully—don’t pull them off the harness—and then move the harness out of the way.
Push the tab and carefully pull off the plug to remove the valve-timing actuator.
Remove the spark-plug coils—they’re bolted to the valve covers. Use a ¼-inch drive ratchet and 7mm socket to unbolt them, then tuck them away from the cover.
To make coil removal easier, unplug the fuel injectors from the wiring harness. When the injectors are unplugged, the coils easily lift out of the cylinder head, as shown.
Next, unbolt the cover from the engine. It takes awhile because there are so many bolts, but it’s not difficult. Once the bolts are free from the cylinder head (they don’t need to be removed from the covers or the special rubber grommets that hold them in place), the cover can be removed. As we show, it’s easiest to have two people remove the cover: one to hold the main wiring harness, coil packs, and other bits out of the way, while another lifts the cover up and off the engine.
On the passenger-side cover, the oil-filler neck needs to be removed from the stock cover and reinstalled on the new one. Lift the tab out of the way, and firmly turn the neck counterclockwise to remove it. It took considerable muscle to get the neck off the stock cover, but it’s the only way to take it off. It reinstalls on the new piece by turning it clockwise onto the cover and snapping the tab into place.
Although the covers come with new gaskets, out 2006 subject car is so new (3,000 miles) that we reused the original gaskets. They come off the old covers easily and press fit into place on the new covers. The gaskets are so secure in the cover, they don’t drop out while trying to install the new covers on the engine. It makes this job considerably easier since you don't have to fight the gasket to keep it in place during installation of the new cover.
With the gasket in place, the new cover drops into place. Again, it helps to have two pairs of hands here: one to hold everything out of the way and another to install the cover. It takes a little bit of finesse to fit the cover in place, so work carefully, slowly, and patiently. Once in place, securely tighten the bolts and replug all the wiring to complete the installation of the passenger-side cover.
Remove the intake-hose/airbox assembly to access the driver side cover. Other than this minor issue, swapping out the driver-sode cover is basically the same as the passenger-side. Unplug the mass air meter from its harness by sliding back the red locking clip and squeezing the tab on the connector while pulling it from the meter. Loosen the hose to the throttle body and remove the bolt that holds the air-filter box to the driver-side fenderwell. The entire intake-hose/airbox assembly can then be removed by lifting up the airbox and pulling the inlet hose off the throttle body.
The driver side also includes two nylon wiring-harness tabs that fit into holes on the valve covers. Remove these by carefully but firmly pulling them so as not to pull them from the wiring harness. The new covers have the same holes for these pieces, and they fit right back into place once the new cover is installed.
With the airbox assembly out of the way, removal and replacement of the driver-side cover is essentially the same as the passenger-side. Unbolt the stock cover from the cylinder head, as shown here, and install the bolts for the new covers.
Want more tech advice? Check out more of our Ford Mustang Tech Articles.
Marlo's Frame & Alignment/Fly-Ford Racing
Dept. MM 10225 Canoga Ave.
Chatsworth CA, 91311
818.341.0940
how-to's always make it sound WAY too easy
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